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BESPOKE CUSTOM SHOE LASTS

A custom shoe last is a mold in the shape of a shoe on which the leather is stretched to craft the custom shoe. “Made-to-measure” on the other hand means that a stock shoe last will be used to make slight modifications to try and match the shape and measurements of your feet. We do not offer made-to-measure services as our lasts are made from scratch. At Bondeno, we sculpt and custom carve the left and right lasts from scratch using the left and right foot's shape, volume and fitting preferences because no two feet are the same. We also understand that each foot's center line/axis is unique and it rarely matches the center line/axis of an adjusted or modified stock shoe last.

CUSTOM TOE SHAPES

When it comes to toe shapes, we offer the classic round, the classic square, the chisel toe, and the perfetta chisel toe.

FREE LIFETIME SHOE LAST ADJUSTMENT PROGRAM

Our feet get wider and our arches begin to slowly fall as we age. We offer free adjustments to your bespoke custom-made lasts if needed every time you place a new order with us so that each new pair of shoes fit you as well as the last.

OUR COLLECTION, REPLICATE OR CUSTOM DESIGN A PATTERN

During the customization process for the upper of the shoe, the client may choose one of our house styles, have us replicate a design, or commission an entirely new design, within the oxford, loafer, derby, monk strap, and boot categories. The final pattern selected by the client will be custom-designed using the client's custom carved lasts.

LEATHER

For our shoes and boots made in calf leather, we use "Sicalf", a 1.4 mm A-Grade full-grain calfskin produced by Tanneries du Puy, established in 1946 in the South of France, and currently owned by the Hermès Group. We use Sicalf for its suppleness, durability, and superior quality.

SOLE CONSTRUCTIONS

In terms of sole constructions, we offer: a single leather Blake Stitch construction known for its thin profile, weightlessness, and flexibility. A double leather Blake Rapid construction known for its thicker profile, durability, and waterproofness. A full Vibram rubber Blake Rapid construction known for its flexibility and water resistance. A Goodyear welted double leather sole, known for its cork-filled foot-bed that molds to your feet over time, provides extra cushioning, it is easily resolable, and is also the most waterproof leather sole available with a double stitched outsole.

HEEL HEIGHT

A standard heel height for a pair of classic dress shoes is around 2 cm or 0.78 inches in height, depending on the length of the shoe, but you are given the option to commission a taller or shorter heel height according to your personal preferences.

INTERIOR HEEL CUSHIONING

We use a high-density memory foam heel piece that never goes flat and provides the most comfortable cushioning of all heel pieces we have come across over the years. This feature comes standard in all of our shoes.

Craftsmanship

DESIGN & CARVING OF THE LAST

We use the client's exact foot shape and dimensions to first digitally create a set of perfect fitting lasts. Once the toe shape of the last is approved by the client, we proceed with the physical creation of the last. Carving a set of lasts when using the client’s measurements is 50% art & 50% science because getting the client's measurements just right is only the beginning. A beautiful pair of shoes is determined by the shape of the lasts, complimenting the client's unique foot shape, body height and weight.

PLANNING

The design of our custom-made shoes are sometimes based of the wishes and specific needs of the client. The design is enhanced with personalization, which starts with the planning and shaping phases.

CUTTING

The cutting of the leather that creates the vamp is done exclusively by hand, to ensure that only the best leather is chosen for a specific model.

CONNECTING

Each pair of our vamps is crafted from beginning to end by a single artisan. This guarantees a precise and accurate semi-finished product, perfect in the smallest details, whether it is visible or not.

ASSEMBLING

The custom made shoe takes shape in this stage. This is done mostly by hand, with pliers, hammers and nails, just like the handmade tradition demands. The machinery helps the artisans somewhat. It can’t however be a substitute for the taste and the expertise of artisans with decades of experience.

PREPARATION, STITCHING, & FLATTENING OF THE SOLE

Before and after the stitching of the sole, many tasks are necessary to bring to completion the creation of a reliable and comfortable shoe. They are very specific tasks, crucial in making the product unmistakably unique.

POLISHING

All our bespoke custom-made shoes are polished on the lasts by using only the best creams: no sprays or polishes cover the beauty of the leather used. The final result is a clean shoe that shines naturally. It does not matter how long it takes to achieve this goal.

THE "HANDMADE" STANDARD

Our handmade custom shoes crafted in our small family workshop in Italy carry traits that are not found in shoes made in factory assembly lines. When Picasso draws a perfect circle by hand we know it could never be as perfect as one drawn using a compass, but just like some people will still prefer the one by Picasso, to this day many prefer handmade shoes because they provide the quality and elegance that machines cannot replicate. Our shoes are hand-welted, hand-lasted and hand-soled.

HAND-PAINTED

When it comes to colors, we offer a choice between our solid colors or our traditional hand-painted patinas. Our patina colors are applied by hand, so the colors on each pair of shoes will vary slightly each time. Hand-painted colors gradually change over time and develop into beautiful patinas, whereas solid colors on calf leathers dyed at the tannery will keep the same color over time.