THE BLAKE STITCH

Sole Thickness: 4 mm = 0.16 inches

The sleekest of the construction methods, the Blake Stitch construction is embraced for its thin 4 millimeter sole and close cut profile, making the shoe look aesthetically sleek and is a great match for a well-fitted Italian suit.

Created by Lyman Reed Blake in 1856 to stitch all parts of the shoe together in one neat internal stitch. A true product of the industrial revolution, it is a story of ingenious technology and technique that has stood the test of time. It is lightweight compared to the Blake-Rapid construction and by having fewer layers, it is much more flexible, minimizing break-in time.

Resoling this construction is more difficult and expensive. If the shoes need resoling, a cobbler has to have a Blake stitch machine, which not every cobbler does. Also, one of the biggest drawbacks of owning a pair of Blake stitched shoes is how careful one has to be about wearing them in rainy weather.

They are not waterproof so water can easily ruin them. This is the main reason why they are mostly worn in very warm and dry weather areas.